Survivors of time - Where stones tell a tale!

A view of St. Mary's Church

Just beyond the crowded Assembly building in Fort St. George is a quiet corner, surrounded by tall neem trees with dangling creepers and a metal gate with an antique lamp at the top. This is the rather quaint entrance to what is claimed to be the oldest Anglican church East of the Suez and the oldest British building in India. St. Mary’s Church is a history book in itself and every step inside seems like a step back in time. The church is now part of the Church of South India, Diocese of Madras. The presbyter, Reverend J. Krubha Lily Elizabeth, points to a booklet on her table about the church’s history.

“The St. Mary’s church was built in 1680 when those who lived in the fort needed a place of worship. Earlier, the chaplain would conduct prayers in the dining hall or some such place.” On March 25, 1678, work on the church began under Governor Streynsham Master. As it was Our Lady’s Day, the church was named St. Mary’s Church. It is said to have been built with voluntary contributions from the English who inhabited the fort. According to the booklet, ‘It will be 80 feet long, 50 feet broad and built with 3 aisles arched with brick and stone’.

The church was consecrated on October 28, 1680, with Rev. Richard Portman and all other English inhabitants of the fort. “They say it was a beautiful day when the Governor and Chaplain headed to the church. They had lined up soldiers all the way to the entrance and people came to see the dedication service of the first Anglican church,” says Rev. Krubha, “We’ve had 112 pastors here so far and there were eight before the church was built.” The Chaplain’s House, which lies behind the church, is now a military station headquarters.

The first organ was bought in 1687 from Captain Weltden for 70 pagodas and was in use till 1718, when a new one was ordered from England. In 1761, the West Gallery was enlarged to make room for an organ. But in the beginning of the 19th Century, two new vestries were built on each side of the present chancel, thereby reducing the gallery size. The organ was removed when a new sanctuary was built in 1884. The present one, which is the fifth, dates back to1894. The present organist is John Collison.

The teak balustrade in front of the gallery dates back to the time when the church was built. The ewer was presented in 1888. The altar rails presented by the Princess of Tanjore have been replaced, but the memorial plate on the step is still there. “There is a window behind the altar where you can now see a painting of The Last Supper. The church has become synonymous with this painting whose artist is unknown. The painting is said to have come from Pondicherry in 1761.”

The church has 104 tombstones, the oldest being that of Lord Pigot dating back to 1777. The original graveyard was situated where the High Court is now, but was shifted later. When the French besieged Madras and took over the building, many of the slabs were brought to St. Mary’s Church and used to lay a pavement. In 1782, when Hyder Ali invaded Madras, the slabs were used to mount the guns around the Fort.

STEEPED IN HISTORY: A view of St. Mary's Church, the interior and a painting of The Last Supper at the altar

When the church was built, it was called the company church and remained the Presidency Church for 150 years. There have been very few changes in the church since then. The spire was added only in 1710. It then became a garrison church, serving the British regiments stationed in the fort. The British army stocked its artillery here.

The registers of baptism, marriage, death and burial have been preserved right from the time the church was consecrated. While the oldest are preserved in the Fort Museum, the rest lie in the church. The register of graves from 1680 to 1947 can be seen at the church and some plates and chalices that were presented by Elihu Yale, then Governor of Madras, a large silver basin, silver flagon and communion cup are on display at the museum. The first marriage registered is that of Elihu Yale, after whom Yale University was named. He married Catherine Hynmers, a widow, in 1680. Robert Clive married Margaret Maskelyne at St. Mary’s Church in 1753. The visitor’s book dates back to1903 and has autographs of King George V and his queen, Mary. A new visitor’s book even has records of Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh’s visit here.

It also records the visit of the Duke of York, Prince Andrew, who was here for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee special service on May 4 this year. The Vestry committee of St. Mary’s Church was a pioneer in many aspects — setting up a charity school (which is now the St. George’s School on Poonamallee High Road), a male and female asylum, a military hospital inside the fort from which the General Hospital later developed and a library.

“I guess a lot of Madras’ history took shape here, since this is where the East India Company began its operations,” says Krubha.

A painting of The Last Supper at The St. Mary's Church

Fact box

Worship continues at the CSI St. Mary’s Church, Fort St. George, with a service on Sundays 9 a.m., and a bible study on Wednesdays 7 p.m. The church is closed to visitors on Sundays. The present Bishop is Rt. Rev. Dr. V. Devasahayam. The affairs of the church are administered by a committee whose chairperson is Rev. Immanuel Devakadatcham.

Published in The Hindu

Date: 21st August 2012

Written by: Anusha Parthasarathy

High on Leh

High on Leh

Dotted with gompas, lakes and astounding views, the Buddhist town of Leh is a dream destination for the maverick and the curious traveller alike.

By the looks of it, Jigme Khyentse Dawa is like any other 15-year-old boy who swears by Harry Potter and Star Wars. But to the monks and high priests of the Drukpa lineage, he is a 'gifted' boy. He is believed to be the ninth reincarnate of the great master Yongdzin Rinpoche, a crucial figure in the Drukpa strand of Buddhist philosophy. Dawa's crowning holds great promise for the spiritual clan that is over 800 years old and has four million followers. It is said the search for His Eminence Yongdzin Rinpoche was so daunting that even His Holiness Gyalwang Drukpa at one point gave up all hope. It was a combination of luck and celestial blessings that brought this young boy face-to-face with His Holiness. And it was decided that Jigme Khyentse Dawa would be crowned the rightful spiritual heir as His Eminence Yongdzin Rinpoche at the Hemis festival this year. 

Jigme Khyentse, Dawa, 15, was crowned as His Eminence Yongdzin Rinpoche at the Hemis festival this year

Crowning glory

The enthronement ceremony began in the inner sanctums of the monastery sharp at nine in the morning and lasted over two hours. A few monks chanted ancient scripts in a sonorous decorum, while others played musical instruments - gongs, cymbals and trumpets - in rehearsed tandem. Complex as the entire ritual seemed, the seriousness and devotion with which the rites were performed could have instilled conviction even in the most stubborn cynic.

The boy sitting on the raised dais beside His Holiness sat unsmiling through his spiritual baptism as cameras and video recorders edged near him to capture every pensive moment. The solemnisation was followed by a celebration at the monastery's sprawling courtyard. 'Colourful' is the one word that aptly encapsulates the Hemis festival, observed on the birth anniversary of Lord Padmasambhava (Gur Rinpoche). Masked and exquisitely-attired monks glided out of the inner wings of the monastery and performed a spellbinding dance-drama in the courtyard as tourists and locals sat patiently, battling the harsh mountain sun, cheering occasionally. 

Anticipating a great rush of tourists at the festival, street shops and hawkers had parked themselves on all the meandering mountain pathways. Trinkets, prayer-wheels, thankas, and even Hemis T-shirts and souvenirs sold at a hefty price. Ladakhis are an enterprising lot. They can sell anything convincingly - from the most obscure item to the most precious. With juley, a jubilant salutation, they win your heart instantly. 

Winter woes

Tucked in the Himalayan range and explored ardently by motorbike junkies, there is no place in Leh that wouldn't urge you to stop and soak in the breathtaking scenery. It is a canvas on which god has applied lush strokes of all shades. But, for our taxi driver Norpa, who drove recklessly on hairpin bends despite signboards warning 'be soft on my curves', it was simply any other town. Perhaps for the locals the harshness of the impending winter spoils the alluring romance of clear skies during the summer months. Wang Chuk, our hotel owner, who shuttles between his Gurgaon residence and Leh, says, "Business is good in summer but once the November chill kicks in I head to Delhi. " Noticing a commotion at a nearby cafê, Chuk lowers his voice and adds, "Israelis! They tend to flock Leh every year around this time and hang about all day at cafes and pubs."

While a few years ago Leh didn't have that kind of mass appeal, today it is a honeymooning destination for robust Punjabis, a solemn pilgrimage for die-hard adventurers and a curious passage for those in transit. The city, too, has changed dramatically, welcoming the influx of tourists. With a bustling town centre now, the city has undergone massive commercialisation. But it's the virginal outskirts that hold much promise. 

A spellbinding dance-drama by masked monks in exquisite costumes

Sights and sounds

Shanti Stupa, which is barely a five-minute drive from the main town, is one such stop. A stupa is a symbol of Buddha's teachings where relics, dharma books and Buddha statues are engraved in the interior walls. Construction of this Stupa started in 1983 by Bhikshu Gyomo Nakamura from Japan. This white-domed structure situated atop a gradual hill offers panoramic views of Leh, providing many picture-perfect moments. The marble-tiled floor of the monument, spotless and clean, lends cold comfort to tired and parched feet. Two other spots that are located within the town's periphery are the Magnetic Hill and the Indus-Zanskar sangam. Vehicles apparently propel themselves forward without the engine being turned on at the hill; some believe it is an optical illusion. The site is very popular amongst tourists, who can't stop squealing at the sight, as if a magician has pulled a rabbit out of his hat. 

Barely a kilometre or two ahead of the hill is the sangam or the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers. Many feel the view is nothing compared to the iridescent Pangong Lake, which is a five-hour drive from the main city and located at an altitude of 13, 900 ft. With only one-fourth of the lake in India and the rest in China, Pangong Lake is heavily patrolled by army men throughout the year. The diaphanous water body changes its hues with every ray of sunlight almost chimerically. Ideal as a camping site, a visit to the lake is incomplete without witnessing the mesmerising sunset and sunrise. For those who aren't satiated by Pangong, the Tsomoriri Lake lies even higher, at 15, 075 ft, and demands at least a two-day halt. Rare breeds of birds such as black-necked cranes, gulls and ferruginous pochard are found at the lake. It is worthwhile to carry a pair of binoculars to have a closer peek at the birds and rare species of animals. 

Trail talk

Leh is a mecca for adrenaline addicts. The towering, slanted mountains offer not only magnificent views but also a cruel terrain that requires great skill to scale. Each year, with most of the trekkers coming in on ponies, the grasslands of the region have been severely depleted and afforestation attempts have suffered a huge setback. Khenrab, the director of the Youth Association for Conservation and Development, Hemis National Park (YAFCAD HNP) took note and came up with an ingenious plan. 

"We tried to convince the locals to let trekkers stay at their homes. They were hesitant initially, as they felt that their houses were very basic. What we did then, is provide them with basic amenities - good bedding, clean interiors and safe, filtered water," says Khenrab. He, thus, not only showed the locals a way to set up a small-scale business, but is also helping preserve the region's green patches. Today, at a nominal price of Rs 350 per day that includes meals, one can stay with a local family and get a taste of authentic Ladakhi culture and cuisine. 

What is heartening is that throughout the Leh-Ladakh region, locals try very hard to keep their natural surroundings safe and untouched. For instance, at the Drukpa White Lotus School, biodiversity is given a lot of importance and students are responsible for the upkeep of their school and its vicinity. But, of late, with tourists flocking here in huge numbers, keeping the surroundings clean and unspoilt has turned out to be a challenge. 

While Leh's sylvan environs are intoxicatingly stunning, it is not a destination for those who desire pampering and indulgence. 

But for the footloose and fancy-free, its snow-clad mountains and serpentine roads offer much to explore and experience. 

Quick Notes

Food file

Traditional Ladakhi food is unappetising. Bland and mildlyflavoured - those accustomed to strong spices will be disappointed. Skyu, a traditional dish made of refined flour and vegetable roots or mutton, is worth a shot, though. Beware of Ladakhi tea - a concoction of green tea, salt and butter Cafês to visit; World Garden Cafê, Babylon and Hotel Snow View for a five-course Ladakhi Tibetan meal, all in Changspa.

Take care

Feeling breathless, faint or suffering from a splitting headache? You are in danger zone. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a serious condition that can prove to be fatal if caution isn't exercised. Once in Leh, at least a day's acclimatisation is advised. Also, stick to mineral water, because Leh's water can be unsanitised. 

Travel diary

Best months to travel to Leh are from June to September. There are hotels fitting all budgets on the Changspa road. Morning flights ply to Leh from Delhi regularly. Road travel is strenuous, but offers the most dramatic views. Delhi to Leh is a roughly three-day journey. There are two ways to reach Leh, one by the Srinagar-Leh highway and the other by the Manali-Leh highway.

Published in The Times of India Crest Edition

Date: June 26th 2010

By Diya Banerjee

A Dip into the Sacred!!!

A Dip into the Sacred

The horns breach the silence and monochromes are replaced by a splash of colours during a festival at Hemis Monastery in Ladakh. 

Hemis Monastery is the biggest and the wealthiest Buddhist monastery in Ladakh. The headquarters of more than 200 branches of Drukpa ‘lineage of the dragons’, this 11th Century monastery is situated at an altitude of 12,000 feet, and is one of the highest settlements of the world. Nestled in a gorge inside the Hemis National Park, at a distance of about 45 km from Leh in Jammu & Kashmir, Hemis gompa withstood plunders unlike other gompas. A recently built museum showcases its rich collection of huge stone and copper-gilt monuments of the Lord Buddha, gold and silver stupas studded with precious stones, and an impressive collection of sacred thangkas (religious paintings).

Drukpa is one of the oldest among the four major Buddhist sects of Ladakh. “In 1206, exactly 800 years ago, Tsangpa Gyare Yeshe Dorje saw nine dragons flew up into the sky from the ground of Namdruk, and he named his lineage ‘Drukpa’ or ‘lineage of the Dragons’ after this auspicious event,” says Gyalwang Drukpa, Spiritual Head of the Drukpa lineage of Buddhism. Drukpa Buddhists follow the Mahayana Buddhist tradition in philosophy of “seeking enlightenment by helping others” through methods based on the Tantrayana teachings. Gyalwang Drukpa adds, “Tantrayana is also called the ‘Vehicle of the Text’. It is distinctive from the other paths in Buddhism as it seeks liberation from the cycle of rebirth in Nirvana and makes full enlightenment or Buddha-hood possible in a shorter time frame, or perhaps, in a single lifetime.”

Starting 10th day of Tibetan lunar calendar, the long horns breach the silence and monochromes are replaced by a splash of colours during this two day festival when the monastery commemorates the birth of Guru Padmasambhava, the 8th Century Indian Buddhist mystic and founder of Tantrayana Buddhism. People from different religions, from across the world, throng the Hemis Monastery to witness an ancient tradition, flourishing virtually unadulterated. The festival draws huge crowds which reaches its crescendo every 12th year when the two-story-high giant thangka, beautifully embroidered with pearls and semi-precious stones, depicting Guru Padmasambhava, is unrolled for public viewing. The Hemis festival, this year, was blessed by the spiritual head, Gyalwang Drukpa, and was attended by over 25000 guests from across the world.

The highlight of the Hemis festival is the Masked Dance, also known as Cham performance which is essentially a part of tantric tradition. The dance is a culmination of a month’s training by the monks and is performed only in Drukpa gompas. The performances have a strong significance and the observance of these sacred rituals is believed to give spiritual strength and good health. The symbolic masked dance, in the backdrop of traditional cymbals, drums and long horns, performed by the monks dressed in brightly coloured 17t Century silk gowns and masks, depicts the victory of Buddha over sinister forces through exorcisms. “It also serves as a reminder to the local people of their rich cultural heritage and showcases Himalayan living traditions which have always been very friendly to the ecosystem. People living in these harsh conditions, unless over exposed to western modernisation, learn from the young how to preserve their environment and how not to waste,” said Gyalwang Drukpa.

A major contributor to Ladakh’s cash economy, tourism has brought clear economic benefits to the minority involved in this trade. While the influx of tourist money has allowed the monasteries to make renovations and repairs at a time when the number of young monks is declining, the synthetic table tops, plastic floor coverings, cement steps, and bright, new, synthetic-based paints, have replaced the traditional material.

Published in The Hindu

Date: 19th August, 2012

By Aamit Khanna

Darjeeling and Kalimpong

The town of Darjeeling is the headquarters of the district, and is most famous for its fine, delicate tea. At an average elevation of 6,982 feet (2,134metres) Darjeeling’s temperate climate led to its development as one of the primary hill stations of the British Raj in India, where British residents escaped the heat of the plains during the summers. Thus it became known as the Summer Capital or Queen of the Hills.

Darjeeling is not only internationally famous for its tea industry but also for the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tea plantations date back to the mid 19th century as part of a British development of the area. The tea growers of the area developed distinctive hybrids of black tea and fermenting techniques, with many blends considered among the world’s finest. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway connecting the town with the plains was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999 and is one of the few steam engines still in service in India.

Kalimpong the second town of the district, located about 50 kms east of Darjeeling is a bustling, lively market town noted especially for its schools. Once the headquarters of a Bhutanese Governor, the word ’kalim’ means King’s Minister and ’Pong’ – the stronghold of the King’s minister. It is also called ’Kalibong’ or the black spur by the hill people. ’Kalipong’ in local dialect stands for ’Kaulim’ which is a fibrous plant which grows in abundance in this region. The meaning that has found the most favour is the Lepcha meaning of the name – ’ridge where we play’. It is said that these local tribesmen used to organise field sports while not engaged in agricultural pursuits – hence its name. Somewhat secluded and tucked away in the corner under the big Darjeeling umbrella, Kalimpong offers a quieter and more relaxing alternative in beautiful countryside with a fine backdrop of Kanchenjunga.

The history of the Darjeeling District is intertwined with that of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and Bengal. Until the early 19th century, the area around Darjeeling was ruled intermittently by the kingdoms of Nepal and Sikkim, with settlement consisting of a few villages of Lepcha woodspeople. In 1828, a delegation of British East India Company officials on their way to Sikkim stayed in Darjeeling and decided that the region was a suitable site for a sanatorium for British soldiers. The Company negotiated a lease of the area from Sikkim in 1835 and established a hill station there. The British began experimental tea plantations in Darjeeling in 1841. The success of these experiments led to the development of tea estates all around the town in the second half of the 19th century.

Darjeeling was annexed by the British India Empire a few years after an incident of discord between Sikkim and the Company in 1849. Scottish missionaries undertook the construction of schools and welfare centres for the British residents, laying the foundation for Darjeeling’s high reputation as a centre of education. The opening of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway in 1881 hastened the development of the region. Darjeeling’s elite residents were the British ruling class of the time, who visited Darjeeling every summer. An increasing number of well-to-do Indian residents of Kolkata (then Calcutta), affluent maharajas of princely states and land-owners also began visiting Darjeeling and as result the town has continued to grow as a tourist destination. After India gained independence in 1947, Darjeeling was merged with the state of West Bengal.

Kalimpong was originally part of Bhutan. In 1865, after the Anglo-Bhutan War, it was merged with Darjeeling, and became a sub-division of Darjeeling in 1916, and developed as a hill station. It flourished as a wool trading centre with Tibet till 1950, when the Chinese took over Tibet. Here Buddhism rubs shoulders with Hinduism and Christianity. Gumpas, unusual churches, temples, monks and missionaries coexist in a jovial society. The quaint bustling bazaar, is a wanderer’s delight, and a host of surprises containing Buddhist thankas, hand beaten silver, Bhutanese weaves, Chinese lamps, Lepcha daggers, masks and a lot more. Kalimpong offers Buddhist Monasteries, Hindu Temples, Christian Churches, Flowers, Orchids and exotic flora, old colonial bungalows and scenic view points.

Darjeeling, along with neighbouring Kalimpong was a major center for the demand of a separate Gorkhaland state in the 1980s. The democratic movement for separation from West Bengal has begun again, this time without any accompanying violence. It has the virtually unanimous support of the local population who all speak Nepali and feel that the Bengali government of West Bengal make little investment in the Darjeeling interest and show interest only in exploiting the region’s considerable natural resources.

Business in the city Kalimpong’s perhaps best known industry is flowers. It has a number of flower nurseries and is particularly famous as an exporter of unusual species of orchids and gladioli all round the world. It also has a cactus nursery that is beautiful to visit. Perhaps the least known but best earner for the city is education. Kalimpong has upwards of 200 schools quite a number of which have 1000 or more pupils (the most famous of which is Dr Graham’s 3000) – and attracts pupils for all over the region. It also has a burgeoning hand made paper industry and a growing tourist industry both for its own attractions and for those of the villages in its vicinity. Darjeeling has a very well developed tourist industry as well of course as a huge tea industry. Like Kalimpong it is also strong on education and has several British-style public schools, which attract students from many parts of India and neighbouring countries.

Courtesy: http://wanderingindia.com/2010/darjeeling-kalimpong-interesting-facts-history/

Writer:  

Explore Wilderness in the Northeast!!!

Heritage and Travel are synonymous. Why do people go to beautiful Europe, Russia, the Far East? And why do these countries attract tourist in large number? One of the main reasons the heritage factor. And gain in this area does India lack. Tourism is one area of industry which can employ people. And also associate industries can start which can help boost the travel industry and vice-versa. Here is another article which was posted in the Times of India dated January 15th 2012. We can also have a look into home-stays which is emphasized in this article. Enjoy the article and think about the concept of home-stays.

"Imagine waking up in a Naga home, amid tribals who were once known for the practice of head hunting, and plucking tea leaves or lemons through the day. Or having a close brush with a herd of elephants in the morning and calling it a night with a mug of 'apong' or rice beer in an Assamese village. 

If you are looking for a vacation away from the usual hill stations, then exploring homestays in India's northeast could be the answer. According to tourism experts, the sector has grown by 10 per cent in the past year. Sabina Chopra, co-founder of travel portal yatra, told us: "The northeast is slowly but steadily catching the eye of the tourist. Due to lack of infrastructure, in terms of good hotels and resorts, tourists are willing to explore newer options like the homestays." 

This sector involves travellers staying with a host family to get a first-hand experience of local life and culture. Nestling in the lap of nature, the eight northeastern states - Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim, Manipur, Mizoram and Tripura - have a wealth of cultural diversity, wildlife, flora and fauna. Nagaland alone has more than 15 tribes and is a cauldron of different cultural practices, art and craft. The Shiyong village homestay in the northernmost part of Nagaland is one of the many in the region that one can explore to know about the Konyak tribe -- famed for the facial tattoos and headhunting. As part of the tour package, one gets to live with a tribal family, participate in daily farm work, pluck tea leaves in the family-owned tea plantation or oranges and lemon when in season. 

The village, which is situated 32 km from the district headquarters Mon, is well connected by road from Jorhat (147 km) and Dibrugarh (283 km) in Assam, which are in turn connected to Guwahati, Kolkata and Delhi by air and rail. If getting close to wildlife fascinates you, then homestays by the North East Social Trust (NEST) in Assam is your answer. "Our idea is that instead of living in a resort while visiting the Kaziranga National Park, why not stay with the local community on the fringes of the park? In any case, it's just early in the morning or evening that one is occupied in a safari and the rest of the day you don't have much to do in Kaziranga," NEST founder Arif Hussain said in an interview. 

By staying in a village, one can enjoy the wildlife, see the one-horned rhino and the tiger, as well as experience the culture and traditions of the locals. "For instance, in Dhuba Ati village you can see how villagers co-exist with wildlife by understanding nature's signals. How they ward off a herd of elephants or a tiger and how they have come to understand that the sudden chirping of birds indicates danger," Hussain said. 

The price of staying in one of these homestays is not much - Rs.800 for a double room, which excludes food. While the weather is pleasant through the year, you may want to avoid the monsoons. According to Hussain, the ideal time to visit is between October and April. If the hills beckon you, then you may like to head for Sikkim and stay at the Yangsum Farm, a heritage farmhouse which was built in 1833 and remodelled in 1966. 

The Tsechu Tharpa family, which runs the farmhouse, manages a 44-acre mountain farm which consists of pine, Himalayan alder, chestnut, magnolia, rhododendrons and other trees. One can soak in the beauty of the hills and enjoy fresh fruits and vegetables right from the kitchen yard. The family grows cardamom, avocados, orange, banana and seasonal vegetables like cauliflower, cabbage, tomatoes and peas. The charge is around Rs.3,600 per night. 

Yet another homestay in Sikkim is the Mayal Lyang in Dzongu. According to a manager at the homestay, the meaning of Mayal Lyang is 'Hidden Land' and the homestay lives up to its meaning because it is "hidden from the hustle and bustle" of the city. You could also head for the Bo-Ville homestay in Shillong, Meghalaya. A grand old house with aesthetic wooden touch, lush gardens and furnished with modern amenities, you would love to stay curled up here and sip your favourite brew. Of course, enjoying the beauty of the hills and the pleasant 'Shillong' weather is part of the package. The room tariff ranges from Rs.2,000 to Rs.2,300, inclusive of breakfast."

Seeking Buddha in Gujarat

Interesting news article I read in The Times of India dated January 17th 2012, so I am putting it in the blog here. I love anything related to heritage. The title of the article is 'Seeking Buddha in Gujarat'.

"Known more for Hindu and Jain religious places, Gujarat is now hoping to play host to Buddhist pilgrims too. 

While in January this year, Chief MinisterNarendra Modi shared the dais with His Holiness the Dalai Lama at the International Seminar on Buddhist Heritage at Vadodara, the state's tourism department is now trying hard to promote the "Buddhist Footprints in Gujarat" through its website. 

The earliest archeological evidence of Buddhism in Gujarat dates back to Emperor Ashoka's reign (269-232 BC). Saurashtra (known as Surashtra/ Saraostes/Syrastene in the past) finds a mention in early Buddhist literature such as the Indriya Jataka, Milinda Panha, Petavatthu, etc. In the sixth century, Bhattarkka, a general of the Gupta Emperors, established an independent principality around Valabhi (Vallabhipur). He was a devout Shaivite but the Maitraka rulers that followed him, though Hindus themselves were great patrons of Buddhism. On his visit to Gujarat in 640 AD, Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang noted the presence of 200 monasteries housing 10,000 monks at Bharuch, Atali, Kheta, Valabhi, Anandapura and Surashtra. Both Hinayana and Mahayana Buddhism were prevalent in Gujarat. 

The following are some of the main Buddhist archeological sites in Gujarat: 

Vadnagar, Mahesana 

Nearly 128 km from Ahmedabad, the archeological site between River Banas and River Rupen, has a 12-cell structure that belonged to a Buddhist vihara or monastery and housed monks from the 2nd to 4th century AD. Hiuen Tsang, who visited Vadnagar (then known as Anandapur) in the 7th century, reported that the city had some 10 sangharams (resting places for Buddhist monks) with a 1,000 Buddhist monks. Archaeologists found around 2,000 artefacts including aBuddha idol, an amphora, figurines, a crucible, a grinding stone, seals, a terracotta head wearing a turban, shell bangles, necklace beads, copper and silver coins that are housed at the Museum of Archaeology at the Maharaja Sayajirao University, Vadodara. 

Perched atop the Taranga Hills nearby, is a shrine dedicated to Devi Taranmata. The idols of Taranmata and Dharanmata are of Buddhist Goddess Tara, the "Mother of all Buddhas," which usually refers to the enlightened wisdom of the Buddhas. In the Dharanmata Temple, over the halo behind the head of the marble sculpture of the Goddess Tara, is a lotus on which rests the Amitabh Buddha. The lower register of the sculpture also displays the symbolic representation of the Buddha in form of an elephant, a horse and a chakra. 

Devnimori, Sabarkantha 

Better known for its hotsprings, Devnimori located 132 km from Ahmedabad has a large Buddhist establishment that dates back to the period between 2nd and 7th centuries AD. King Ashoka is said to have erected as many as 80,000 stupas across India. He unearthed the ashes of Buddha from their original place and distributed them across the country, building stupas accordingly. One such stupa, from the 4th century was excavated in early 1960s at Devnimori. Close to the major trade routes of Mewar and Dungarpur, Devnimori was the site of an important Buddhist monastic centre 1,600 years ago. The mahastupa's still there but the relics including a casket containing Buddha's ashes and 17 terracotta statues of Buddha are now housed in the Department of Archaeology at The Maharaja Sayajirao University, Vadodara. 

Junagadh District 

A prominent Buddhist centre since Ashoka's reign, Junagadh district is sprinkled with rock-cut-caves, monasteries and stupas at 15-odd sites such as the Ashokan rock edict at Girnar, Baba Pyara Caves, Khapra Kodia caves, Upparkot caves, Panheswer Caves, Mai Gadechi, Matri, structural monastery at Intawa, brick stupa at Bordevi and Vajrapanat, Sana caves, caves around Prabhas Patan, Mandor Caves and Savni-Gir. 

Buddhist caves, about 2000 years old, are among the oldest monuments at Uparkot. Carved out of monolithic rock, these three-tiered caves are famous for their exquisite art. 

Getting there: 

Gujarat has one of the better developed road networks in India. State transport and private buses are the best and the cheapest modes of transport. Ahmedabad is well-connected to all major cities and towns by road, rail and air. 

(Compiled by Eisha Sarkar)" 

Crumbling Heritage

I read a news with comments that fascinated me. It is posted in 'The Times of India' dated 29th December 2011. The title of the topic is "First Pakistani president's Bengal home in a shambles". The article states, 

BEHRAMPORE: 

From a distance, it looks like the ruins of a castle. As you come closer, the first thing that strikes you is an imposing gate, with a royal emblem above it. But thanks to the apathy of the authorities, few are aware of the glorious history behind the house. It belonged to Iskander Ali Mirza, former Pakistani president and grandson of Mansur Ali Khan, the Nawab of Bengal.

Welcome to the Bengal home of former Pakistani President Iskander Ali Mirza. Iskander Ali Mirza was the first president of Pakistan. But his house at Kutubpur in Lalbag, lying in a dilapidated condition, speaks little of his illustrious career. Citizen Forum on Human Rights, a human rights organization, wrote to President Pratibha Patil on Monday, demanding immediate restoration of house. The organization also wants the house to be declared a national property.

Afzal Hossein Khan, state president of the human rights organization, said, "I wrote to Pratibha Patil, President of our country regarding the issue. I stated in the letter that if Pakistan can take care of L K Advani's house or Bangladesh can reserve Jyoti Basu's house, why should we be indifferent to the house, rich in history, for so many years? We request you to declare it as national property and protect it for future generation. Government must free the house of encroachers and prevent demolition of the building." who are planning to construct building demolishing the house."

"We have come to know that thieves are taking away bricks and even doors of the house, nearly every day. Why is the administration so indifferent?" questioned Khan.

Born in 1898 and educated at Elphinstone College in Mumbai, Iskander Ali Mirza was the son of Muhammed Fateh Ali Mirza and grandson of Nawab Mansur Ali Khan. After passing out from the Royal Military Academy and a six-year stint at British Indian Army, Iskander Ali Mirza joined the Indian Political Service. In 1954, he became the governor of East Pakistan and in 1956 he was declared the first president of Pakistan.

On a visit to the decrepit house of Mirza, it was found that two families had encroached upon the whole property. Hens and goats were also found within the premises of the house. Gora Sheikh, an old resident of the house said, "We have already demolished the decaying roof and repaired another part of the house." Amir Hossein, another resident, said, "We are here and as a result no thieves could steal bricks and other things from the house. One of Mirza's relatives gave us the permission to live here from my grandfather. We have planned to set up a madrasa here, but we need money."

"We had repeatedly asked the Left Front government to restore the house, but they turned a deaf ear to us. This house can be used as a tourist spot and the government can also earn from here. Lastly, we requested the Union finance minister Pranab Mukherjee to look into the matter and are waiting for him to take some

action," said Biplab Chakraborty, councillor, Murshidabad municipality.

Nobody cared to reserve or maintain Iskander Ali Mirja's house at Kutubpur in Lalbag. Iskander Ali Mirza , son of Muhammed Fateh Ali Mirza and grandson of Nawab Mansur Ali Khan, first Nawab of Bengal, born in 1898 and educated in Elphinstone College in Mumbai. Iskander Ali later joined Indian Political Service after passing from Royal Military Academy and six years experienced from British Indian Army. In 1954 Iskander Ali Mirza became governor of East Pakistan and in 1956 he was elected as first president of Pakistan.

Citizen Forum on Human Rights, one human rights organization wrote to the President of India on Monday demanding immediate reservation and restoration of the house at Kutubpur in Lalbag. Afzal Hossein Khan (Sanju Khan), state president of the human rights organization said, "I wrote to Pratibha Patil, President of our country, if Pakistan can take care of L K Advani's house or Bangladesh can reserve Jyoti Basu's house, why we would we be indifferent about the historical house for the years? We request you to declare it as national property and protect it for future generation. Government must clear encroachment, who are planning to construct building demolishing the house."

Khan added. "We have come to know thieves are snatching bricks and even doors each and every day. Why is the administration indifferent?" After visiting decaying house of Iskander Ali Mirza, it evident two families have encroached the whole property. They have set dish tv and even pet some hen and goats inside this historical house. Gora Sheikh, old habitat of this house said "We have already demolished the decaying roof and repaired another part."

Amir Hossein said, "We are here and as a result no thieves could steal bricks and other things. One relative of Mirza gave us permission to live here from my grandfather. We have planned to start one madrassa here, but need money."

"We had applied repeatedly to Left Front government, but they showed almost deaf ear to us. This house can be used as a tourist spot and government can earn from here. Lastly we requested to the union finance minister Pranab Mukherjee and now waiting for action," said Biplab Chakraborty, councilor, Murshidabad municipality."

I will try to put the picture if it permits!!! 

The remains of the ancestral  home of Pakistan's first President Iskander Ali Mirza at Lalbag in Murshidabad.

Viola!!! Sad isn't it? And sadder are the comments of people. Some people are saying to demolish the house of a traitor and make something in place like toilets....We as people are so apathetic towards old heritage buildings. So what if he left India and became Pakistan's president? And so what if buildings in Pakistan and Bangladesh which were occupied by people who migrated to India after partition are demolished? Do we need to stoop to their level? An eye for an eye makes the world blind. Cant we make it a heritage palace cum hotel? When we see old beautiful buildings abroad in Europe, we say wow....most of the building simply wow us. They are so beautiful. Some of the buildings are more then 100 years old. They have been renovated over many years to keep them upto standards. And look at ours. And I am sure these buildings if renovated will give any European building a run for their money. People will come and look. We too are an ancient culture with an old history but our old buildings don't seem to last due to apathetic and callous people who are not interested and make useless comments.