Wednesday, 10 October 2012

Indian and Danish govts to revive Serampore heritage


Bengal Heritage

A slew of restoration activities is in store for the decaying colonial heritage of Serampore. Not only has the Union ministry of culture sanctioned funds for the Danish Governor's House, the Danish government has taken up preservation of the south and north gates of the complex. The Mamata Banerjee government is trying to include the erstwhile Fredriksnagore (christened after King Frederick VI who ruled from 1746 to 1799) with its eventful history and the physical remains on the list of World Heritage Sites. As the Danish administration functioned from Serampore, about 25 km north of river Hooghly, between 1755 and 1845, Kolkata and the adjoining areas were controlled by Denmark as a trading port. The Governor's House in the subdivisional court was their epicentre. The restoration, too, will begin with this building. 

Serampore College
Serampore College Crest (Coat of Arms)



The efforts to revive the remnants of the Danish buildings of Serampore have resulted in the 'Europe-on-Ganga' project, conceived by the West Bengal Heritage Commission (WBHC). "The collaboration between the Centre, the commission and the Danish government is sure to give a fresh lease of life to the heritage of Serampore," said Shuvaprasanna, chairman, WBHC. 

The Main Building of Serampore College



Danish conservation architect Flemming Aalund, historian Simon Rasten and ethnographer Bente Wolff will be here in November to execute the Serampore Initiative taken up by the National Museum of Denmark. NMD has raised private and public funds for Serampore, which still shows off an intricate tapestry of European and indigenous architecture dating back to 18th Century. 



The culture ministry is expected to finalize the quantum of funds to be disbursed this month, but the commission is gearing up for a post-Puja date. Their focus - the derelict, single-storied Governor House - has already undergone piecemeal preservation. "During the first phase, which began in 2009, only a small part of the mammoth restoration project could be completed. Now, we are starting all over again," said Partha Ranjan Das, member, WBHC. 



The second phase of restoration promises to be more extensive. It will include repair of the wooden staircase, the wooden skylights and the walls and replacement of doors and windows. Steps will be taken to prevent further deterioration. The building that used to be a mud-and-wattle construction with a thatched roof has survived for over 200 years. No wonder, it shows different characteristics reflecting Serampore's history through Danish, British and Indian periods. Much of it had collapsed during a dinner party on December 2, 1770. The rest was demolished in 1771 until Johan Leonard Fix, the new Danish head, reconstructed it. The British inherited the building in 1845. Finally, it was abandoned after a roof collapse in 1999. 



The Serampore Initiative was conceived in 2008 by NMD's ethnographic department to supplement the Governor House project, but it hit a roadblock of rules prohibiting direct foreign funding of government projects. "Now an arrangement has been worked out. Intach, an NGO working on heritage conservation, has tied up with NMD. We are supporting them," said Shuvaprasanna. 


St. Olav's Church

William Carey's Tomb

Also on NMD's cards is the restoration of St Olav's Church and the old Danish cemetery, upgrade of the square in front and setting up a museum with the Danish history of Serampore. The cemetery is under the Archaeological Survey of India, but the headstones are crumbling. "The restoration project will be backed by seminars, meetings and archival activity since the initiative aims at promoting knowledge of the cultural heritage related to Serampore," said Shuvaprasanna.

Map of Hooghly

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Published in The Times of India
Date: 10th Oct. 2012
By Ajanta Chakraborty

Tuesday, 9 October 2012

History and Images of Leh & Laddakh

Leh Palace
Leh, capital of Ladakh 1857

Thiksey (Gompa) Monastery
Leh Palace

Leh Palace
Laddakhi women in traditional dress 
Mask dance at Hemis Monastery

Leh
Prayer Flags
Leh Palace at night
Hemis Monastery in Leh, Laddakh

Laddakh Landsacpe


HISTORY
Leh (Ladakh) was known in the past by different names. It was called Maryul or low land by some Kha- chumpa by others. FaHein referred to it as Kia-Chha and Hiuen Tsang as Ma-Lo-Pho. It is said that the first  Immigrants to this land appears to have been  the  Brokpas  from  Dadarstan  who  inhabited  the  lower reaches of the Indus Valley popularly known as Sham. Another wave of  Immigrants who came from Karja (Kulu) were the Mons, an Aryan type who first settled  in Gya and spread to Rong, Shayok,  Sakti  Tangtse  and  Durbuk,  the  area  extending  from Martselang to Khaltsi. Gia was the seat of government of the first Mon ruler having been elected by the whole tribe. His kingdom included  the  villages  mentioned  above,  all  of  which  was inhabited  by  the  Mons  people  He  was  known  by  the  title Gyapacho, derived from his being the master of Gia.

The ancient inhabitants of Ladakh were Dards, an Indo- Aryan race. Immigrants of Tibet, Skardo and nearby parts like Purang, Guge  settled  in Ladakh,  whose  racial  characters  and  cultures were in consonance with early settlers. Buddhism traveled from central India to Tibet via Ladakh leaving its imprint in Ladakh. Islamic missionaries also made a peaceful penetration of Islam in the early 16th century. German Moravian Missionaries  having cognizance of East India Company also made inroads towards conversion but with little success.

In the 10th century AD, Skit Lde Nemagon, the ruler of Tibet, invaded Ladakh where there was no central authority. The lands divided  in  small  principalities  were  at  war  with  each  other. Nemagon defeated them one by one and established a strong kingdom at Shey, 15 kms from Leh, as its capital. Ladakh was an independent country since the middle of the 10th century. 

King Singge Namgyal had consolidated the Ladakhi Empire into a strong kingdom. He was not only a strong monarch but a statesman, a diplomat and a builder. He built the historic 9 storeyed  Leh  palace  and  made  the  other  neighboring countries  envy of such an elegant palace.  He also promoted horse polo in Ladakh. In the ancient times the present Leh district was a part of Greater Ladakh  spread  over  from  Kailash  Mansarover  to  Swaat (Dardistan). The Greater ladakh was neither under the Domain of Tibet or  its  influence.  Not  much  information  is  available about the ancient History of Ladakh. However, reference about the  place  and  its  neighbourhood  in  Arab,  Chinese  and Mongolian histories gives an idea that in the 7th Century A.D fierce wars were fought by Tibet and China in Baltistan area of the Greater Ladakh in which deserts and barren mountains of Ladakh was turned into battle fields for the warring armies.

In the 8th century A.D Arabs also jumped into these wars and changed  their  sides  between  China  and  Tibet.  Around  this period, the ruler of Kashmir, Laltadita conquered Ladakh. In the 8th  Century  A.D  itself,  The  Arabs  conquered  Kashghar  and established their control over Central asia which embraced Islam in the 9th century A.D and thus a buffer state came into being between Tibet and China, terminating the hostilities between the two warring countries. The greater Ladakh also fell into peices. A thousand years ago before the contol  of Tibets  rule, king Skitde  Nemagon,  ruled  over  Ladakh  which  was  known  as Muryul (Red Country), as most of the mountains and the soil in Ladakh wears a red tinge. In the 10th Century A.D Skitday Nemagon, along with a couple of hundred men, invaded Ladakh where there was no central authority. The Land was divided in small  principalities,  which  were  at  war  with  each  other. Nemagon defeated all of them and established a strong central authority. Those days Shey, was the capital of Ladakh became to be known as Nariskorsoom, a country of three provinces. The present Ladakh was divided into two provinces while the third comprised  western  Tibet.  The  area  of  western  Tibet slipped away from the kingdom but was reunited in 16th Century A.D. by the famous Ladakhi ruler Sengge Namgyal. Ladakh was an independent country since the middle of 10th century.

In  the  post-partition  scenario,  Pakistan  and  China  illegally occupied  78,114  sq.  km  and  37,555  sq.km  of  the  state, respectively while the remaining part of the state acceded to India. Pakistan also illegally gifted 5180 sq.kms of this area to China. Ladakh, comprising the areas of present Leh and Kargil districts, became one of the seven districts of the State. In 1979 when  the  reorganization  of the  districts  was  carried  out,  the Ladakh district was divided into two full fledged district of Leh and Kargil.


GEOGRAPHICAL  :-

District Leh is situated roughly between 32 to 36 degree north latitude and 75 to 80 degree East longitude and altitude ranging from 2300 mtrs to 5000 mtrs above sea level. District Leh with an area of 45100 Sqs Kms makes it 2nd largest district in the country after Kutch (Gujrat) with an area 45652 Sqs Kms in terms  of  area.  the  district  is  bounded  by  Pakistan  occupied Kashmir in the west and china in the north and eastern part and Lahul Spiti of Himachal Pardesh in the south east. It is at a distance of 434 Kms from State capital (Summer) Srinager and 474 Kms from Manali(HP).

Topographically, the whole of the district is mountainous with three parallel ranges of the Himalayas, the Zanskar, the Ladakh and the Karakoram. Between these ranges, the Shayok, Indus and Zanskar rivers flow and most of the population lives  in valleys of these rivers. According to the provisional geographical area figures supplied by Surveyor General of India, the total area of Leh district is 82,665sq. Kms. Out of the total area of 37,555 sq.kms is under the  illegal  occupation  of  China  leaving  45110  sq.  kms  with India. As per the village Papers, the area under the occupation of India is 44,000 sq. Kms only. The district is divided into 9 CD Blocks namely Leh, Khaltsi, Nyoma, Durbuk, Kharu, Nubra, Saspol, Panamic and Chuchot and divided into 3 tehsils namely Leh, Sumoor and Khaltsi. Leh is the district headquarter and the only township in the district. There are 93 panchayat halqa in the district. Whole district has been declared as a tribal district.

APPROACH ROADS

Ladakh is called the Hermit Kingdom due to its remoteness and in accessibility. Ladakh is connected to the main land through two  roads  namely  Leh-Srinagar  national  highway  and  LehManali road. These two roads remains open only during summer months and during the winter it remains closed for more than 7 months  due  to  closure  of  the  passes  (Zojila,  Rotang  Pass, Baralacha, Changla) . Leh District is connected to the Block Headquarter by roads, through a network of roads. The average distance of the block headquarter from Leh is 180 Kms. Bus services  and  other  means  of  communication  is  very  poor.
Border  roads  organization  maintains  most  of  the  highway connecting the block head quarter and PWD maintains a road length of 1060 Kms. As some of the roads to the block head quarter passes through the world highest motorable roads, it is frequently  closed  due  to  the  avalanches  and  snowfall  in  the passes. Durbuk block and Nubra Block remains closed in winter months due to closure of Khardongla and the Changla Pass. The transport service comprises of roads, motor vehicles, civil aviation, railways, and water transport. . All this constituents form  the  base  of  economic  infrastructure.  The  adequate availability  of  this  infrastructure  leads  to  rapid  economic development, though the railways and water transport does not
exist in the district.

The road transport is the major and principle mode of mobility of men and material in the district. Roads are thus considered as arteries of our economy, which plays crucial role in sustaining economic  growth  and  is  vital  for  the  development  of  all segments of the society. Due to difficult terrain of the district, it is very difficult to provide road facilities, however Public Works Department  has  constructed  and  maintained  substantial  road network in the district. Out of 113 villages of the district, 97 stands  connected  with  the  motorable  road  by  ending  March 2009. The  Border  Road  Organization  (Project  Himank)  is  also contributing a lot in the economic development of the district by constructing/maintaining  a  huge  chunk  of  road  network, connecting the border areas. 

AIR SERVICES

Then the only route accessible to Ladakh during the winter is air, Indian Air Lines operates daily flight services form Leh to Delhi  and  return  besides  Jet  airway  and  airgo.  Moreover  in winter months the air services is not frequent as there are too many cancellations of flights due to fog in Delhi and snowfalls in Leh. Life in Ladakh comes to a stand still in winter months and remains cut off from the rest of the world. There  are  two  Airports  in  the  district  namely  K.G  Bakula Airport at Leh and army Airport at Thoise Nubra. Leh airport connects  the  national  capital  of  Delhi  and  state  capital  of Srinagar and Jammu.
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Taken from the website of LAHDC Leh
The Official Website of Laddakh Autonomous Hill Development Council (Leh) 

Friday, 5 October 2012

Desert winds of change: High-Altitude Ladakh’s responses to a global challenge



Desert winds of change: High-Altitude Ladakh’s responses to a global challenge

1. Introduction

In the contemporary world, cultural traditions are disappearing as the drive towards cultural globalization and homogenization seems relentless. Facing these problems, museums need to make a statement to not only "collect artefacts and document lifeways before those cultures or memories of them disappear. The greater goal is for museums to play a role in the conservation of those cultures, to actually help those cultures survive in the contemporary world" (Kurin, 1991:317). The purpose of this paper is to explore the conference theme using the example of the community of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas, whose traditional lifestyle has been exposed to rapid changes in the past three decades. The paper will first give a background on Ladakh’s cultural traditions, and then describe changes that have occurred due to increased contact with the outside world, significantly contributing to the disruption of traditional life and the deterioration of traditional cultural practices. It will then outline local initiatives put in place by the Ladakhis to respond to such changes in an effort to revive their sustainable traditional lifestyle. Finally, the Stok Palace Museum of Royal Relics and the Namgyal Institute for Research on Ladakhi Art and Culture will be introduced as major players in the preservation of Ladakh’s cultural heritage, and it will be argued that in the future they can play a greater role as agents for promoting cultural cohesion and shaping community identity in Ladakh. This paper does not systematically review available literature, or offer concrete solutions or an action plan. It is rather an introduction to some of the challenges Ladakh is facing, and how the Ladakhi community is responding to these challenges, and reflects on observations made during a short voluntary project carried out at the Stok Palace Museum of Royal Relics by the author in 2002.

2. Background to Ladakh

Ladakh is a semi-autonomous region situated in the North-Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. The area is divided into the two districts of Kargil and Leh, and has a total population of approximately 150 000. The Kargil District is mainly inhabited by Muslims, while the Leh District discussed in this paper has mainly Buddhist inhabitants. Ladakh comprises 59,000 km2 and has one of the lowest population densities in the world. Lying in the rain-shadow of the Himalayas, this high altitude desert is characterised by a rugged landscape of mountain ranges rising up to 6500m. Ladakh is governed by its harsh climatic conditions. While its short summers scorch the land with temperatures of up to 40° C, its long winters bring harsh conditions with temperatures falling as low as -40° C.

The region is often referred to as "Little Tibet", as its language, art, architecture, and customs reflect a strong Tibetan influence that have resulted from ancient trade relations with Tibet. However, Ladakh was never part of Tibet but an independent kingdom, ruled by the Namgyal dynasty, which can be traced back to 975 AD. The Namgyals ruled Ladakh until 1834 when the region was invaded by Hindu Dogras under Maharaja Gulab. After the Indo-Pakistan war of 1947, Ladakh became part of the State of Jammu and Kashmir. Today, the Royal Namgyal family has no more actual ruling power, but is highly respected in Ladakh. Its members play an active role as local representatives and make constant efforts to promote the region and its place within India. Due to India’s ongoing conflict with Pakistan, the Chinese invasion of Tibet in the 1950s and their occupation of the Arsai Chin region in 1962, Ladakh is today situated in one of the most sensitive and strategic areas of the subcontinent (Norberg-Hodge, 1991: 10). 

Traditionally, most Ladakhis are self-sufficient farmers living in small villages scattered in the river valleys, where water coming from the melted snow and ice of the mountains can be accessed through the elaborate channels of an irrigation system the Ladakhis have maintained for generations. Cultivated land is limited, and owned by individual farmers or by the Buddhist monasteries called gompas. At an altitude of above 3000m and with a short growing season, production of barley and other types of wheat as well as potatoes, turnips and peas is limited to self-consumption and a small surplus for exchange with traders through a bartering system. Ladakhis to a great extent depend on animal husbandry of sheep, goats, donkeys, horses, cows, yaks and dzos for their supply of dung used as fuel, transport, labour, wool, and milk. While in the summer the Ladakhis are preoccupied in the fields, the long winters are concentrated on the production of wool products, and are filled with festivals and religious events.

Ladakh’s social structure has evolved due to its environmental and economic conditions. The polyandrous system of marriage, for example, was traditionally practiced to satisfy the "economic necessities of the environment" (Crook and Sakya, 1983: 213). In a traditional Buddhist Ladakhi family, the oldest son would marry and his younger brothers would become co-husbands of his wife, provided they did not become monks. The property was passed on from father to the oldest son, and in this way, polyandry regulated not only the growth rate of the population in a land with minimal carrying capacity but also the division of property and wealth.

The Buddhist monastery or gompa as a religious institution plays a vital role in Ladakh’s social structure. Most villages have a gompa as the central institution of the village. Conventionally, the younger sons of a family often join a monastery at an early age to devote their lives to religious study and commit themselves to the monastery. Monks play an important role in the local economy as well as cultural, educational and political activities (Singh, 1993: 242). Traditionally, there is a reciprocal relationship between the monastery and the villagers. The monks provide religious services to the villagers and additionally produce religious objects, clothing or medicine, and help with agricultural duties during the annual production cycle. The monasteries ensure the support of non-producers such as the sick, elderly and children with surplus produce (Grimshaw, 1983).

Buddhist religious practices, brought from India to Tibet by Guru Rinpoche, permeate all aspects of Ladakhi life. Most village houses are filled with Buddhist religious objects and symbols. A family chapel can be found in most houses. It is often the most elaborate and expensive part of the house and is filled with religious texts, rugs, thangkas and other treasures passed on from generation to generation (Norberg-Hodge, 1991: 34). From daily prayers to annual festivals, the year is shaped by religious beliefs and practices. Throughout the year, the monasteries are hosts of important religious ceremonies, festivals and rituals involving days or weeks of ritual and prayer carried out by the villagers and visitors who assemble at the village monasteries (Norberg-Hodge, 1991: 78-80). 


3. Globalisation and Change

As with many other long-established traditional societies, Ladakhi society has evolved over centuries through a process of frequent refinement as a response to the existing climatic and environmental conditions (Rizvi, 1998: 173). But radical changes have occurred recently through contact with the outside world and the influences of globalisation, bringing with it Western models of modernisation and development. "Globalisation is the buzz word of our time" (Logan, 2002: 2) and can be described as a mechanism tying people the world over to one system: 

"…It refers to the complex pattern of interconnections and interdependencies that have arisen in the late-modern world. Globalisation is heavy with implications for all spheres of social existence – the economic, the political, the environmental, as well as the cultural" (Tomlinson, 1999: 25).

It has been argued that the process of globalisation often results in cultural globalisation, or the change from traditional cultural practices to a more Western consumer-orientated culture (Logan, 2001, 2002, Norberg-Hodge, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1996). While many have made clear that globalisation is not an entirely external and homogenising process, but rather a complex and multi-faceted phenomenon (Rigg, 2003, Logan, 1997, Tomlinson 1999), it is evident that "Western cultural practices and institutions still remain firmly in the driving seat of global cultural development" (Tomlinson, 1999: 24), and assert a strong influence on many traditional communities.

Logan explains that due to globalisation, "social structures and political institutions…are changing in response to the global spread of industry and communication technologies and to the commodification of products and wage labour" (Logan, 1997: 2). He refers to changes in work practices, leisure possibilities, fashion and aesthetic taste, and the choice of available consumer goods. He argues that, through a clash between local lifestyles and global influences, traditional communities often feel "dis-embedded", or disconnected, from their environment and organisational processes around them. They sense that they are not in control of their own destiny as they are being drawn into a global system that changes the pace of their daily lives. However complex the implications of the globalisation process, it is this factor of change that is most significant here. As argued by Toffler (1970) in his book Future Shock, rapid and uncontrolled change leads to disorientation and the loss of values and identity, and can have devastating effects on people unprepared for it.

Over the last three decades, rapid changes have occurred in Ladakh at an alarming rate. Several factors have caused these changes. In 1962, the Indian Army built a road to link Ladakh to India in order to protect the region from incursions of China and Pakistan. Previously disconnected, Ladakh can now be reached mainly through routes from Srinagar in the West of Jammu and Kashmir or from Manali, in the North of Himachal Pradesh. An airport in Leh has also been put into place. Access to this transport system has resulted in new economic opportunities and significant changes in Ladakhi social life. The demand for workforce by the Indian Army to maintain newly developed shops, service stations and hospitals has introduced a cash economy and replaced the traditional bartering system and culture of reciprocity. Government development policies introduced at the time have brought about the development of Western-style infrastructure such as a hydroelectric power plant, as well as Western-style medicine and education curricula, which have been criticised as gearing Ladakhis towards becoming "citizens of the consumer world" (Crook, 1994: 814).

Additionally, by the 1960s the traditional polyandry system of marriage had declined, since legislation passed by the Jammu and Kashmir government in the 1950s had rendered it illegal (Singh, 1993: 244). Due to this legislation, and Western values transmitted by the new education system, polyandrous practices became uncommon to the extent that now "polyandry is perceived as primitive or uncivilised by many Ladakhis" (Hay, 1999: 179). This has resulted in changes in the division of land and has brought about more nuclear family structures, which proves more efficient for Ladakhis, who prefer and have access to paid employment in Leh and commute from the surrounding villages or even rent a room in the capital (Hay, 1999: 182). According to Hay (1999) and Mann (2002: 261), a decline in polyandrous structures has also lead to a decreased status of the Ladakhi woman, and a more dominant role of the male.


Changes dramatically intensified when the Indian government opened up Ladakh to tourism in 1974. Starting with less than 500 tourists in 1974, the number of tourists attracted by the rich and unspoilt Buddhist heritage and Ladakh’s natural features ideal for trekking, rose to almost 15 000 a year by 1984 (Norberg-Hodge, 1991: 93). The total of number of international and domestic tourists expected to visit in 2003 is 20-30 000 (India Times, 2003). To deal with the growing tourist influx, an infrastructure of guesthouses, restaurants and shops have been built. Those businesses are often run by Kashmiris and other non-Ladakhis, attracted from other parts of India by the economic opportunity. The high demand for agricultural products has not only lead to the imports of food but also to changes in land use (Singh Jina, 1993: 158). Traditional cultural artefacts such as thangkas, jewellery, prayer flags and prayer wheels, are now produced mainly for the shops, and even imported from outside Ladakh (Hay, 1999: 188). To extend the short tourist season from June to September, traditional festivals have been moved and are now carried out to attract tourists, having lost a great deal of their seasonal and occasional significance. Notable here is the Ladakh Festival organised by the Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Department in September to attract visitors to the area at the end of the season.

The in Leh developing urban environment previously unknown to Ladakh has brought about an increased level of aggression and crime due to the wish of Ladakhis and other Indians to succeed in the tourist business and earn money to enjoy Western consumer goods. During the peak tourist season many young Ladakhis travel to Leh from the surrounding villages to seek employment in hotels, restaurants, Internet cafes and as tour guides and porters. This not only takes away the young people from the fields at the time their labour is most needed (Rizvi: 1998: 196), it also has created a young, wage earning middle class of Ladakhis rejecting their old fashioned ways of life in favour of the Western lifestyle (Crook, 1994: 812). Increased contact with Western tourists and the media promoting "overwhelming images of luxury and power"(Norberg-Hodge, 1991: 96) has brought about a wish among young Ladakhis to live a glamourised Western lifestyle. The Ladakhi lifestyle of working in the fields for little or no money seems primitive. Young Ladakhis often feel inferior, and ashamed of their culture.

This feeling of inferiority and "the pressure to modernise" (Norberg-Hodge, 1992) has led to a strong rejection of the Ladakhi culture and a loss of cultural identity among many Ladakhis. These new influences have contributed in many ways to the degradation of the fragile environment of Ladakh and the breakdown of traditional village, family, and monastery life, as well as ethnic conflict between Buddhist and Muslims (Mann, 2002). Taking into account the above factors it seems that traditional Ladakhi society and their sustainable lifestyle are in danger of disappearing due to a great deal of exposure to contemporary Western ways.

4. Local response: ‘Counter-development’ and local community initiatives

Although contact with Western culture is on the increase, local initiatives have ensured that now, Ladakh is known as a place responsive to the rapid changes is has been exposed to, and active "in retaining its Tibetan Buddhist culture and the delicate balance of its fragile ecosystem" (Lonely Planet, 2001: 294). In Ladakh, an alternative development model took hold in the mid-1970s initiated by the linguist and environmentalist Helena Norberg-Hodge, who since then has done extensive work in Ladakh to promote ecological and cultural sustainable development.

Development as part of the modernisation process in the past has meant transforming a traditional society into a society similar to nations of the Western world. Many have accused traditional development thinking for the negative effects that have resulted from attempts to modernise "primitive" communities using a Western model, supported by international organisations such as the World Bank, assuming Western value-systems and institutions and measured mainly by economic growth (Logan, 2001: 26). But more recently there has been a shift to incorporate different worldviews, cultural practices, and traditional knowledge into development strategies (Skelton and Allen, 1999, Fink 2003). Rather than measuring human welfare in purely economic terms, it is now deemed essential to enhance and maintain local values and traditions through the protection and preservation of cultural heritage in order to assure sustainability of "dis-embedded" societies, and to enable "local people to assert greater control over their local spaces" (Logan, 1997: 2).

Forerunning these considerations by over two decades, Norberg-Hodge initiated a model called counter-development, aimed at a shift from "globalisation to localisation" in order to counter further loss of traditional values and create lasting solutions in Ladakh. This has meant the establishment of "small, local initiatives that are as diverse as the cultures and environments in which they take place" (Norberg-Hodge, 1996: 6). The concept of counter –development has sought to promote indigenous, self-reliant methods supporting ecological and cultural diversity and applying local resources and knowledge (Norberg-Hodge, 1991: 163). Norberg-Hodge founded the Ladakh Project, which later became the International Society for Ecology and Culture (ISEC), providing locals with information concerning development issues and helping Ladakhis to explore locally more viable solutions (ISEC, 2003). This has triggered the foundation of a variety of Ladakhi
organisations.

In 1978, the first Ladakhi non-governmental organisation, the Ladakh Ecological Development Group (LEDeG) was formed to develop small-scale renewable energy projects such as building solar greenhouses and installing solar water heaters, cookers and room-heating systems. Such alternative energy projects are now widely accepted in Ladakh. The Women’s Alliance was founded in 1994 to raise the status of women in Ladakh. Activities organised by the Women’s Alliance today include annual festivals celebrating traditional craft techniques such as spinning and weaving, clean-up campaigns to raise awareness of environmental pollution, and ‘No TV-weeks’.

Founded by young Ladakhis in 1988, the Students’ Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh (SECMOL), aims at rendering the government education system more effective and relevant to the community (Rizvi, 1998: 189). Non-governmental organisations from all over the world are now attracted to Ladakh to help with and learn from these local efforts.

5. Representing community identity: A challenge for the Stok Palace Museum of Royal Relics and NIRLAC

In the light of these local movements, the Royal family of Ladakh has been very active in its efforts to preserve and promote the cultural heritage of Ladakh. In 1980, the Namgyal family opened the Stok Palace Museum of Royal Relics to showcase the family collection of Royal relics and document the history of the family dynasty. Stok Palace, the residence of the Royal family, was built by Ladakhi craftsmen in 1822 using traditional sun-dried mud-bricks. It has 80 rooms spread over four levels and an internal courtyard with a tarchen or prayer-flagpole, signifying the presence of religious scriptures within the palace (Norberg-Hodge, 1991: 79). The courtyard is of significant religious meaning and annual religious festivals are held at the palace. The features of the palace strongly represent the traditional Tibetan architecture typical for Ladakh.

The Stok Palace Museum currently consists of four rooms within the palace, displaying fascinating religious objects such as a set of 35 thangkas, or religious cloth paintings, the King’s and Queen’s crowns and sacred Buddhist scriptures. The Queen’s crown, or perag, is intricately pieced with 400 turquoise stones. The palace contains two chapels maintained by a resident monk, who together with monks from the village monastery periodically carries out the worship service puja. A rich variety of puja instruments such as bells, dorjes and cymbals as well as masks used by monks for other rituals are exhibited in the museum. More secular objects such as quivers, arrows, guns, swords and shields as well as government seals and coins are reminders of issues of warfare and administration in the once powerful kingdom of Ladakh.

An object of great significance is a sword with its blade twisted into a knot. It is said to be associated with the immense powers of King Tashi Namgyal (1532-1560), during whose reign the region was particularly powerful. Items of personal day to day use such as jewellery, ornaments, costume, and teapots can be found as well as trade objects from China and Tibet. A variety of historic photographs are displayed depicting members of the Royal family dressed in traditional costume and attending traditional functions. Parts of the palace exhibit intricate religious wall paintings.

The exhibition currently is one where the artefact is of primary importance. The objects are displayed in velvet-lined glass cases and cabinets. There are few hand-written English labels giving the names and sometimes dates of some objects. The museum is land-marked as a tourist attraction of the area, and visits to Stok Palace are incorporated into the tours of monasteries and other important sights that are organised from Leh in the summer season. The museum therefore primarily exists to represent the legacy of Ladakh and the status of the once powerful Ladakhi kingdom and its rulers. The museum exhibition, by showcasing visually impressive objects, encourages respect and admiration of Ladakhi material culture, evokes wonder and curiosity, and communicates to the visitor "a sense of quality, meaning and importance" (Clifford, 1991: 225).

In 1987, the Indian National Trust for Art and Culture (INTACH) established a basic catalogue for most of the objects in the museum, and in its report made suggestions for possible extensions of the museum previously envisaged by the King of Ladakh. INTACH identified the establishment of the Stok Palace Museum as a significant step to "open up" Stok and make a "broader move to document and preserve the cultural heritage of the Buddhist culture of the Western Himalayas" (INTACH, 1987). The Royal family makes a constant effort to maintain and raise the profile of the museum.

Some visitors have in the past asserted the wish for more explanations to the meaning of the objects in the museum and the meaning of the Royal family in a wider context. In this capacity, the author of this paper during a short project made recommendations to improve display and interpretation in the museum. To make the exhibition more meaningful to overseas and domestic tourists, it was suggested that the objects be grouped into the four rooms under interpretive themes. Making use of interpretive labels, this was intended to better contextualise the role of the Royal family in the past and present, and explain aspects of palace and cultural life and the history of Ladakh. When implemented, these changes are hoped to further enhance the understanding and acknowledgement of Ladakhi culture by the visitor. The option of extensions to the museum and the establishment of a documentation centre or cultural centre was recommended, as previously considered by the King of Ladakh and INTACH.

In addition to the Stok Palace Museum, in 1985 the Royal family established the Namgyal Institute for Research on Ladakhi Art and Culture (NIRLAC). Now working under the auspices of the Queen Mother and King of Ladakh, as well as an advisory panel of cultural heritage professionals, NIRLAC has coordinated key activities aiding cultural heritage preservation in the area. Established as a charitable organisation with the remit to promote art, culture and literature in Ladakh, the society’s aims and objectives are "to foster a spirit of goodwill and harmony, and to promote understanding of Ladakhi culture" and to "preserve and restore the unique artistic heritage of monasteries, palaces, forts, gompas, manuscripts, icons and scrolls" (NIRLAC, no date) (Plate 8). It further aims to encourage appropriate cultural heritage management in the area and to set up a documentation centre as well as a library and archives on the arts, crafts and history of the region. NIRLAC also conducts seminars, exhibitions and festivals. To further promote an understanding of Ladakhi culture and its fragile environment, it works to encourage the establishment of educational institutions and special centres for the benefit of less privileged members of society. NIRLAC also "proposes to conduct training programmes in conservation, preservation and management to ensure the sustainability of all its programmes" (NIRLAC, no date), and to involve the local community in all aspects of its work.

In 1999, the institute organised an exhibition of the thangka collection owned by the Royal family in collaboration with the Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts (IGNCA) in New Delhi. The organisation of a Japanese Film Festival and the making available of donations to provide children of underprivileged families with schooling, are other activities that have been carried out by NIRLAC.

More recently, NIRLAC has worked on a variety of projects to aid cultural heritage preservation in the area. In May 2001, NIRLAC hosted the workshop Cultural landscapes of Ladakh, which brought together about 60 participants from local organisations such as the Buddhist society to international establishments such as UNESCO. Management strategies to preserve Ladakh’s cultural heritage through defining heritage zones and values were suggested, and issues such as income generation and employment opportunities as well as the revitalisation of traditional practices and the organisation of training initiatives were discussed (UNESCO Delhi, 2003). At present, NIRLAC is undertaking several restoration programmes in Ladakh’s temples, and runs a thangka documentation programme in many of Ladakh’s monasteries. Moreover, a training programme for young Ladakhis to prepare historic building inventories is being planned (Tara Sharma, NIRLAC, personal communication 20/03/2003 and 16/05/2003).

NIRLAC’s programmes aiming at the revitalisation of traditional skills and knowledge are significantly contributing to local awareness of the importance of the preservation of heritage as elements from the past that today provide Ladakhis with a sense of identity. But the Stok Palace Museum of Royal Relics also displays an immense potential to be an agent of making relevant and meaningful traditional values and cultural practices, not only to create a greater appreciation of Ladakhi culture among overseas and domestic visitors, but also to help "re-embed" Ladakhis within their traditional lifestyles and underpin local identity, and so assure sustainability for the future.

Indeed, a need for museums to expand their role in the community and create reciprocal relationships to act as a forum for different perspectives has been acknowledged (Mudenda, 2002). Museums can play a role not only in the preservation of the material culture of a community; rather, they can be a focus for the community and be attuned to its interests, needs and problems. In this way, communities can participate in their heritage preservation as the museum represents their living culture (O’Neil, 1991). Local groups can participate in the work of a local museum in many ways, for example in the form of advisory groups, or to help with the organisation of an exhibition or an activity to reflect an insider’s interpretation of local culture, art or history (Houlihan, 1991: 206). Local groups themselves can initiate projects or the establishment of cultural centres as forums for representation and articulation of their cultural identity (Karp, 1991: 12, 15), and to counter dominant voices (Durrans, 1988: 153).

There are many examples of how museums and cultural centres have helped in affirming the identity of their communities, and local groups that have used museums to bring attention to their cause. Fuller explains the process of the establishment of a community museum by the Ak-Chin, a group of Native American Indians who live in the Sonoran Desert in Southern Arizona. Similar to the Ladakhi experience, the cultural traditions that sustained the Ak-Chin community were in danger of disappearing due to rapid changes brought about by economic development. They established a community museum "to hold discussions and create exhibitions about issues of common concern" and to ask new questions, research facts, communicate ideas and defend positions and to act upon local knowledge to define present challenges (Fuller, 1992: 332).

Clifford (1991), in the context of North-West Canadian indigenous communities has further described the role of tribal museums as centres that seek to represent local viewpoints and experiences and so deal with current struggles. More recently, the Tjibaou Cultural Centre was opened as a cultural development tool adapted to the needs of the indigenous Kanak community of the French colony of New Caledonia to achieve cultural recognition and shape a new cultural identity to aid in the process of achieving political and cultural autonomy (Kassarherou, 1998).

In Ladakh, the Stok Palace Museum and NIRLAC could help with the ongoing process of interpreting "local meanings, memories and reinvented histories" in similar ways (Clifford, 1991: 233). Events and exhibitions organised by local groups could interpret the existing collection from the view of the village people, as well as address contemporary issues and challenges and be used by the community to assert their local identity. The museum could become a "tool for the economic, social, and political growth and development of the society from which it springs" (Fuller, 1992: 328). The Stok Palace Museum could extend its role to initiating a broader movement among Ladakhis to care for their cultural heritage and traditions. An extended cultural or documentation centre could use "a combination of archives, audiovisual materials, theatre productions, language retention programmes, genealogy tracing, and basic education classes", as well as initiate oral history collecting or the organisation of discussion groups, festivities and arts and crafts workshops for young people, to become a participatory forum for the celebration of local tradition. This would give the Ladakhis a great deal of control of how their heritage is represented and provide an opportunity, especially among young Ladakhis, to shape a stronger community identity and regain pride in local cultural traditions. Complementing the work of other local organisations and initiatives, this would provide an ideal environment to deal with challenges brought about by an increased contact with the outside world and achieve a greater balance between modern development and traditional skills and knowledge.

Stok Palace is faced with numerous challenges regarding the fragile conditions of the building and its setting as the residence of the Royal family. The museum collection has not yet been fully documented or assessed, and the lack of funding for permanent staff to care for the collection and deal with museum administrative and maintenance issues provides an obstacle to further development. However, NIRLAC’s remit to promote and support the establishment of institutions with a special focus on "nurturing the cultural legacy of Ladakh" (NIRLAC, no date), and the strong vision and commitment of the Royal family of Ladakh, show enormous potential for the Stok Palace Museum or an extended cultural centre to fulfil a more community-focused role in the future.

6. Conclusion

This paper has introduced Ladakh and outlined some of the challenges the Ladakhi community faces due to rapid changes resulting from an increased contact with the outside world. Some of the effects of such changes have been described and Ladakhi measures to counter the changes have been outlined. Two key players in the preservation of the cultural heritage of Ladakh, the Stok Palace Museum of Royal Relics and NIRLAC, have been introduced. Their possible future role has been suggested to be not only conservers of Ladakhi culture, but also agents to represent and extend Ladakhi culture by facilitating the shaping of a strong cultural identity. Using the example of the community of Ladakh, the paper has not introduced new concepts or given concrete solutions, but shown that, as the pace of change increases and cultural traditions
are in danger of disappearing due to globalising forces, the role of museums as arenas for cultural representation and as "vehicles for community empowerment" (Fuller, 1992) becomes increasingly important.

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ICME papers 2003

Desert winds of change: High-Altitude Ladakh’s responses to a global challenge

By
Vanessa Kredler
Documentation Assistant, National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London SE10 9NF.
vkredler@nmm.ac.uk

Paper made available to conference participants at Cultural Traditions in Danger of Disappearing in Contemporary Society - A Challenge for Museums
Sibiu, Romania. September 26-30, 2003
























Monday, 10 September 2012

One Great Scot!


A cleit which was used for drying and storage. Photo: Sharadha Bain
A cleit which was used for drying and storage. Photo: Sharadha Bain
Sharadha Bain details an extraordinary voyage made by a lone man from St. Kilda.
A thriving colony of 2,00,000 Leach’s petrels make their home amid the wild cliffs and barren fields of the islands of St. Kilda, the most remote outpost of Scotland and Britain in the Atlantic. The largest colony in Europe, they lay claim to being one of the main inhabitants of these islands, deserted of human presence bar the staff of the National Trust for Scotland, the conservation charity which is the custodian of St. Kilda, and technicians who run a radar station located there.
With their sleek black feathers and rounded beaks, the birds on St. Kilda are part of the same family as the three-million-strong flock on Baccalieu Island off Newfoundland. The storm petrel’s travels between the dramatic blue-grey sea stacks of St. Kilda and the rolling shores of Canada echo the shared ancestral ties that link many Canadians and Scots. Nearly five million Canadians today claim Scottish ancestry, their lives built on epic voyages made by brave and often desperate men and women leaving behind all that they had ever known in search of a new world and new possibilities. One of the most extraordinary of these voyages was made by a lone man from St. Kilda — Donald John Gillies. This is his story.
Men on either side of the street forming the St. Kilda Parliament in the village on the island of Hirta, St Kilda.
Men on either side of the street forming the St. Kilda Parliament in the village on the island of Hirta, St Kilda.
Challenges
Unlike other communities from the Highlands and the Hebridean islands, emigration from St. Kilda was slow and reluctant. In 1852, an ill-fated expedition to Australia saw only 18 of its 36 members survive, the others perishing by infectious diseases during the voyage or soon upon arrival. It revealed in heartbreaking fashion how low the immune resistance of the isolated colony was. There were no other attempts to migrate from St. Kilda for a very long time.
It wasn’t until World War I brought the outside world to St. Kilda that the siren call of modern life began drawing people away. Unlike other communities, the St. Kildans didn’t venture far — most went to the nearby towns and cities of Oban, Glasgow and Inverness. Only Donald John Gillies crossed the Atlantic. He was born in 1906 and spent the first 24 years of his life in a two-room stone cottage with his parents. His descriptions of the simplicity of island life are poignant. He narrates how boating accidents regularly killed island men because none of them could swim. The harvesting of seabirds, a vital part of the diet on the islands, was also fraught with danger. Ropes could snap, men lost their footing on the slippery rocks, a moment’s inattention on the cliffs proved deadly. Mail only arrived in the summer and they were isolated from the world for the rest of the year.
During the war years, the island had 16 visitors from the outside world who painted vivid tales of life elsewhere. Given the contrast with their own harsh life, the population began ebbing away. In 1924, it was also Donald John’s time to leave. “As I looked around, I discovered that all my school chums and playmates had left for various places on the mainland and St. Kilda looked to me as a desolate place without any future. I was just left practically alone. When the ferry arrived on her last trip for the season, I made up my mind that I would leave that day.” His parents gave him all the cash they had in the house — a grand figure of four pounds sterling. The ferry from St. Kilda to Glasgow cost him one pound. He spoke only Gaelic and had never been off the island before. Six years later, in August 1930, the final five remaining families on St. Kilda left the island. A Bible remained in each of their homes, left open at the Book of Exodus. All manner of new experiences awaited Donald John on arrival in Glasgow. “I saw my first car and wondered what the dickens it was — four wheels coming towards me.”
Poignant remains of human habitation. Photo: Sharadha Bain
Poignant remains of human habitation. Photo: Sharadha Bain
A cousin met him off the ferry in Glasgow and he initially stayed with an uncle and aunt. He entered Bible Training College. He also began learning English. A chance meeting in 1926 with a visiting minister from Canada inspired him to fill in an application to become a student of the Presbyterian Church of Canada. A year later, he sailed from Glasgow, arriving in Quebec with no money or ticket to get to his destination. By a stroke of good fortune, he met an Anglican clergyman on the dock who heard his tale with great sympathy and helped him reach the Presbyterian church in the city. The minister there supplied him with a ticket and also stocked his purse with $20. Rev. Donald John Gillies steadily built a new life in Canada from these poignant beginnings. The years that followed were rich with service and travel. The church was filled to capacity when he preached his final sermon.
Rev. Donald John Gillies returned to St. Kilda in 1980 at the invitation of the National Trust for Scotland. A ceremony was held to mark the 50th Anniversary of the Evacuation of the Island, and the church was rededicated. At the service, he spoke from his heart: “We live in a time when much of what is old and cherished is being questioned and doubted, but it seems to me that there are a few matters which should be beyond dispute — the value of the great Scottish virtues of honesty, pride, self-reliance, independence of spirit, deep religious sense, of love and of education — surely these are all beyond doubt. I am proud of the National Trust for Scotland, of the marvellous efforts they are putting forward in the restoration of abandoned places of great religious and historic life.”
Rev. Donald John Gillies died peacefully at his home in Vancouver in 1994 at the age of 94.
St. Kilda. Photo: Special arrangement
St. Kilda
Today, St. Kilda has dual UNESCO World Heritage status — a rare honour bestowed for both natural and cultural significance.
St. Kilda’s islands of Hirta, Dun, Soay and Boreray possess the highest sea cliffs and stacks in Britain. These are home to the world’s largest colony of gannets, just one of 17 species of seabird that come to St. Kilda every spring and summer to breed.
Under the sea, there is a wealth of marine life. These include jewel anemones, jellyfish of many different types, long-clawed squat lobster, basking sharks, and minke and killer whales. We have evidence that people first arrived at St. Kilda in the Neolithic age. They stayed — although the population never rose above 200. The most striking man-made features are the cleits — conical drystone structures in which crops, sea-birds, eggs and peat would be stored. Hirta alone has more than 1,400 of them. What also remains is a necklace of 19 century dwellings, once occupied by families such as the Gillies’, and now silent memorials to a lost community.
The barren islands. Photo: Special arrangement
The barren islands.

The author is a part of the communications team for the National Trust of Scotland, an independent conservation charity that has been the custodian of St. Kilda since 1957.
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Published in The Hindu
Dated: 8th Sept. 2012
By Sharadha Bain

Friday, 7 September 2012

Based on the life of Lord Krishna


Based on the life of Lord Krishna

The scenic beauty of the Kangra Valley makes exquisite settings for the painted tableaux.
The Guler painting, ‘The divine flautist’ showing gopis attending on Lord Krishna.
The Guler painting, ‘The divine flautist’ showing gopis attending on Lord Krishna
Buddhism had practically disappeared from India, its place of origin, by the eighth century A.D. Its associated art too declined, leaving an artistic bridge to be spanned.
The Vaishnava revival of the 11 and 12 centuries brought about by Ramanuja and saint poets like Jayadeva of Bengal gradually established Krishna as the supreme deity, the approachable glorious Vishnu. Jayadeva’s Gita Govindam, the song of the divine cowherd, echoed the poet’s deep spirituality, with Krishna as the human soul attached to earthly pleasures, and Radha the wise divine.
The enchanted gopis were the five senses – smell, touch, sight, taste and hearing. Krishna’a return to Radha was the surrender of the repentant, to God. Guru Gobind Singh [1675-1708] was not just a soldier—he was a poet-scholar, well-versed in Persian, Hindi and Sanskrit, who wrote on the legends of Rama and Krishna. He also had 52 bards in his permanent employ. Kesavadas, a Brahmin from Orcha, Bundelkhand, was the court poet of Indrajit Shah of Orcha. His ‘Baramasa [12 months] and Rasikapriya [in 1591] are both immortal works: the latter details various emotions and legends of the Krishna theme.
The portrait 'Melody of Spring’ shows Krishna singing and dancing along the river, with devoted gopis providing the percussion. Even the dhol is covered in floral painted fabric
The portrait 'Melody of Spring’ shows Krishna singing and dancing along the river, with devoted gopis providing the percussion. Even the dhol is covered in floral painted fabric
The Mughal connection
Art closely followed poetry and literature, making for a truly divine combination, and the scenic beauty of the Kangra Valley made exquisite settings for the painted tableaux. These paintings were first influenced by the Mughals, their occupation of the Punjab and Himachal showing in the Islamic influence on painted beards and clothes. With Sikh ascendancy and royal patronage, the later Kangra paintings showed longer beards, and a Punjabi style of apparel.
The delicacy of the Kangra and Pahari paintings were heavily based on the weight of the Krishna theme—its legends brought out vividly by the painter’s brush. Exotic symbolism was re-enacted by the imaginative painter. The beauty of the female, the hilly landscape, the Beas river valley, its rivulets and streams, terraced fields along the low hills of the Dhauladhar range and trees such as the peepal, mango and plantain brought Krishna alive — living his delightful life, as one of the denizens of the village. All local events had the divine couple of Radha and Krishna as central characters, as the hero and heroine.
The portraits shows Krishna and his mates happily spraying maidens with the red coloured water
The portraits shows Krishna and his mates happily spraying maidens with the red coloured water
In the Guler painting, ‘The divine flautist’ Krishna stands on a large lotus flower, playing the flute. He is surrounded by gopis, whose only interest is Krishna, while a couple of cowherds appear to be looking, a little furtively, at the divine scene. One gopi is offering betel leaf to the lord, another waves the chauri, yet another is fanning the lord, while another is tugging at his upper cloth or uttariya, to gain his attention.
Cows and calves are nearby, ever attached to Krishna and even the fish in the Yamuna are up in the water, attracted by the magic of his flute. Gods and gandharvas rain flowers from the sky, enchanted by the earthly Muralikrishna. The ‘Melody of Spring’ shows Krishna growing up happy and carefree in Brindavan, safe from Kamsa. He sings and dances along the river, with devoted gopis providing the percussion. Even the dhol is covered in floral painted fabric, the pastoral scene a simple floral delight.
'Driving the flock’ shows little Krishna, setting off to graze the cows, along with Balarama, his brother, who is shown packing laddus in his waistcloth.
'Driving the flock’ shows little Krishna, setting off to graze the cows, along with Balarama, his brother, who is shown packing laddus in his waistcloth
Delightful portrayal
Driving the flock’ is just too delightful a portrayal of the Krishna theme. Yashoda’s cherished pet, the little Krishna, is off to graze the cows, along with Balarama, his brother. Yashoda gives a stick to Krishna, to drive the herd. Balarama is shown as a chubby and happy boy. His priorities are clear, depicted by the many laddus being wrapped in his waistcloth, ready for feasting later, in the woods. A lady holds a plateful of laddus- simple joyful treats.
The portrait showing herds of cows enjoying the music played by Krishna on his flute.
The portrait showing herds of cows enjoying the music played by Krishna on his flute
'Feast in the forest’ shows a gang of boys sitting down to lunch with Krishna.
Feast in the forest’ shows a gang of boys sitting down to lunch in a clearing—the leaf plates and ‘donnais’ are filled with delicacies. The rich and the poor are enjoying the repast together—Krishna, the provider and the protector of all.
'Krishna's Magic Flute' shows the pacified Radha meeting Krishna in a garden of tamaala trees, with atimukta creepers flowering freely. Krishna has spread His blanket on the ground and they sit on it, with Krishna devotedly braiding Radha’s hair
'Krishna's Magic Flute' shows the pacified Radha meeting Krishna in a garden of tamaala trees, with atimukta creepers flowering freely. Krishna has spread His blanket on the ground and they sit on it, with Krishna devotedly braiding Radha’s hair
Holi, the festival of colour, has long projected joy. Krishna and his mates happily spray maidens with the red coloured water, refilling their sprayers from pots carried by some others of the gang. Singing and dancing is part of the revelry.
'The magic flue of Krishna,' shows the engrossed twosome seen sitting down on a branch of the bauhinia, under a mango tree near a plantain grove.
'The magic flue of Krishna,' shows the engrossed twosome seen sitting down on a branch of the bauhinia, under a mango tree near a plantain grove
Krishna’s magic flute’ shows him alone, playing just for his love of music, and for other beings. A pair of cranes, cows in all shades, trees, flowers, the forked lightning and other cowherds—all get transfixed in sheer ecstasy. The river too seems to leave its course, taking a bend towards Krishna and his melody. The tinkling bells of the cows and their taut tails all show rapt reaction to the ethereal flute.
The engrossed twosome wander among the glades by the river, sit down on a branch of the bauhinia, under a mango tree near a plantain grove. In the Gita Govindam, Jayadeva narrates the separation and reconciliation of Radha and Krishna, as a pastoral drama. Radha sits alone by a tree, while Krishna dances with gopis, afar. A gopi brings Radha news of Krishna – “There he is, the sky-coloured figure, anointed with sandal, enrobed in gold, wearing a garland of wild flowers and forest leaves. See how the curls of His tresses fall on His temple, as He goes hand in hand with 100 brides.”
The pacified Radha meets Krishna in a garden of tamaala trees, with atimukta creepers flowering freely. Krishna has spread His blanket on the ground and they sit on it, with Krishna devotedly braiding Radha’s hair. She has eyes only for Him, while the birds, lotus blooms, peacocks and dark clouds create the perfect romantic setting.
(to be concluded)
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Published in The Hindu
Dated: 6th Sept. 2012
By Rupa Gopal

Thursday, 6 September 2012

Ancient Buddha idol, monastery unearthed in Jajpur



An ancient statue of Gautama Buddha and remains of a Budhha Vihar (monastery) have been unearthed from Kesharaipur-Hatikhol village in the vicinity of world famous Lalitgiri Buddhist site in Odisha's Jajpur district. Workers came across the articles while digging the land for a drain there three days ago, said noted Buddhist researcher Harischandra Prusty.
A meditating Buddha idol, made probably during post Gupta period, and earthen items like bowls, spout jars and broken potteries were found from the spot. "The unearthed stone image is called Bhurisapta Padmapani, an incarnation of Lord Buddha. The idol is made of Khondolite stone and its height and width is 3 feet 2 inches and 2 feet 1 inch respectively. While one of its hands is seen in blessings giving posture, another hand holds a lotus. Both the wrists bear bungles and armlets in the arms," said Prusty.
In addition to the Buddha image, a monastery has been discovered on the foot of Kesharaipur-Hatikhol hill. "The monastery is 30 x 30 metres size. There are four rooms each measuring 10 feet x 9 feet each. It is made of good size stones. The Buddhist monastery has been probably built in the eighth century under the patronage and propagation of a king of the Bhaumakara dynasty that flourished between eighth and the 11th century in the state," said Prusty.
"If proper excavation work is carried out, many historical findings may come out, he said. District Collector Anil Kumar Samal said the district administration would follow up necessary excavation and conservation works. The digging work was stopped after the discovery, he said.
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Published in The Indian Express
Dated: Sept. 6th, 2012